Fresh sashimi and sushi dishes made from seafood imports from Japan have vanished from Japanese restaurants in China after it introduced blanket radiation testing last month, leaving related businesses at a loss what to do.

China's decision to keep imports of fresh seafood and other marine products from Japan at customs for up to one month before clearance has prompted some businesses in the country to seek alternative procurement sources.

The testing measures are believed to have been adopted in order to apply pressure on Japan over its plan to begin releasing treated radioactive water from the crippled Fukushima nuclear power plant into the sea around sometime this summer. China has voiced its strong opposition to the planned discharge.

On a Sunday afternoon in late July, a male Japanese fish dealer called the owner of a Japanese restaurant in Shanghai, pondering the value of his presence if he cannot handle fish imports from the neighboring country.

Photo shows Australian tuna purchased instead of Japanese tuna by a Japanese restaurant in Shanghai, China on July 27, 2023. (Kyodo)

To help buoy the sales of the dealer, the owner purchased Australian tuna through his company, but found out that taste was not as strong as Japanese tuna and its color was not so bright. "It reminded me of how special Japanese tuna is," the owner said.

The owner procured turban shellfish from a different country but could not use it as it was not as tasty as the Japanese variety.

In an email to customers, the owner said the restaurant will "try to wholeheartedly examine ingredients" despite the damage from the total radiation testing on seafood imports from Japan, but told Kyodo News in an interview, "Can we offer authentic Japanese cuisine without using fresh fish from Japan?"

Sales of another dealer's company have halved since the blanket testing was introduced.

At one supermarket, sashimi items made from Japanese fish imports have disappeared. A business representative who has seen sales decline 15 percent said customers already refrain from buying those fresh fish products as the Fukushima water discharge draws near.

In Shanghai, a plan to newly open a Japanese restaurant was canceled following the start of the total radiation testing, sources familiar with the bilateral relationship said.

According to a Japanese fisheries industry official, a Chinese customs worker said "politicized Japanese seafood items" are not welcome around this time.

Since marine product imports from Japan come to China with certificates of radiation testing conducted in Japan, a dealer expressed indignation, saying, "It is clear those items test negative when fresh examinations are conducted. (Chinese) customs are taking measures just for harassment."

In 2022, Japan's seafood exports to mainland China stood at 87.1 billion yen ($610 million), accounting for some 20 percent of the total and making Beijing the top-ranked importer, according to the Japanese farm ministry.

Tokyo aims to achieve seafood exports worth 1.2 trillion yen by 2030, but it would be a difficult goal if China continues with its tighter customs inspections.

Since the 2011 Fukushima nuclear accident triggered by a major earthquake and tsunami, China has banned food imports from Fukushima and nine other Japanese prefectures. If the water discharge begins, Beijing could further tighten controls on food imports from Japan.


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