Kusatsu Onsen is a chart-topper. Prior to arriving here the visitor will have likely been told by at least one tired city worker that this is one of the top three onsen towns in Japan. (They like things delivered in 3s in these parts; Gero, Yufuin, and Arima among other onsen town contenders for a slot in one ‘top three’ list or other). There are reminders dotted throughout town that you're in the upper reaches of Japan's numerous 'hot spring' rankings.  There's even a prize-winning public lavatory facility in the center of town to add to Kusatsu's boast.  

Is there something in the water?

Putting to one side the perennial argument of quality versus quantity, the waters of Kusatsu Onsen are able to deliver on both, and it's this impressive balance that lifts the town to the rarefied placings on top onsen lists. Kusatsu handles the largest volume of natural flowing onsen water out of all the onsen towns in Japan.  Much of said water pours forth into the town center and through Kusatsu's endlessly photographed yubatake. Quite literally ‘a field of hot-spring water’, Kusatsu's yubatake is the first stop for the bathers, weekend breakers, and daters that flock to this part of Japan. And it does puts on quite the show for all of them. This being Japan the yubatake is dressed up every evening with in a show of surprisingly restrained lights. It's at it's best, however, during daylight hours when mountain breezes cause the sulphuric steam to dance and drift in mystical repose.

It is smelly, though.  Walking around, making futile attempts to dodge the steam and get the coffee-table photobook photo it's hard to shake the thought that Kusatsu might have something to do with 'kusai' (くさい), the Japanese term for 'smelly'. Every time the word slips out the Japanese travel partner frowns. Bad form in these parts.

Adjacent to the yubatake, some lung-busting steps lead up to Kosenji Temple from which one can grab elevated views of the Lilliputian scene below, and check the bearings for further exploration of the area.

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